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5 Examine the pump rotors and body for
signs of wear ridges and scoring. If worn, the
complete pump assembly must be renewed.
6 Examine the relief valve piston for signs of
wear or damage, and renew if necessary. The
condition of the relief valve spring can only be
measured by comparing it with a new one; if
there is any doubt about its condition, it
should also be renewed. Both the piston and
spring are available individually.
7 Thoroughly clean the oil pump strainer with
a suitable solvent, and check it for signs of
clogging or splitting. If the strainer is
damaged, the strainer and cover assembly
must be renewed.
8 Locate the relief valve spring, piston and
(where fitted) the guide pin in the strainer
cover, then refit the cover to the pump body.
Align the relief valve piston with its bore in the
pump. Refit the cover retaining bolts,
tightening them securely.
Refitting
9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in
position, then engage the pump sprocket with
its drive chain. Locate the pump on its dowel,
and refit the pump retaining bolts, tightening
them to the specified torque setting.
10 Refit the sump as described in Section 12.
14 Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal
3
Right-hand oil seal
1 Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
flanged spacer as described in Section 8.
Secure the timing belt clear of the working
area, so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil. Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
the seal in its housing.
2 Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each, and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal. Alternatively, the seal
can be levered out of position using a suitable
flat-bladed screwdriver, taking great care not
to damage the crankshaft shoulder or seal
housing (see illustration).
3 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
4 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil, and carefully locate the seal on the
end of crankshaft. Note that its sealing lip
must face inwards. Take care not to damage
the seal lips during fitting.
5 Using a suitable tubular drift (such as a
socket) which bears only on the hard outer
edge of the seal, tap the seal into position, to
the same depth in the housing as the original
was prior to removal. The inner face of the
seal must end up flush with the inner wall of
the crankcase.
6 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket as described in Section
8.
Left-hand oil seal
7 Remove the flywheel as described in
Section 15.
8 Make a note of the correct fitted depth of
the seal in its housing. Punch or drill two small
holes opposite each other in the seal. Screw a
self-tapping screw into each, and pull on the
screws with pliers to extract the seal.
9 Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
10 Lubricate the lips of the new seal with
clean engine oil, and carefully locate the seal
on the end of the crankshaft.
11 Using a suitable tubular drift, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal, drive
the seal into position, to the same depth in the
housing as the original was prior to removal.
12 Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
flywheel as described in Section 15.
15 Flywheel - removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Removal
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch assembly
as described in Chapter 6.
2 Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth with a screwdriver or a
similar arrangement to that shown in
illustration 8.10. Alternatively, bolt a strap
between the flywheel and the cylinder
block/crankcase. Do not attempt to lock the
flywheel in position using the locking pin
described in Section 3.
3 Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining
bolts, and discard them; they must be
renewed whenever they are disturbed.
4 Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
very heavy. If the locating dowel is a loose fit
in the crankshaft end, remove and store it with
the flywheel for safe-keeping.
Inspection
5 If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface is
deeply scored, cracked or otherwise
damaged, the flywheel must be renewed.
However, it may be possible to have it
surface-ground; seek the advice of a Peugeot
dealer or engine reconditioning specialist.
6 If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, it must be renewed. This job is best left
to a Peugeot dealer or engine reconditioning
specialist. The temperature to which the new
ring gear must be heated for installation is
critical and, if not done accurately, the
hardness of the teeth will be destroyed.
Refitting
7 Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft. Remove any remaining
locking compound from the threads of the
crankshaft holes, using the correct-size tap, if
available.
8 If the new flywheel retaining bolts are not
supplied with their threads already pre-
coated, apply a suitable thread-locking
compound to the threads of each bolt.
9 Ensure that the locating dowel is in
position. Offer up the flywheel, locating it on
the dowel, and fit the new retaining bolts.
10 Lock the flywheel using the method
employed on dismantling, and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque.
11 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6.
Remove the locking tool, and refit the
transmission as described in Chapter 7A.
16 Engine/transmission
mountings - inspection and
renewal
3
Inspection
1 If improved access is required, raise the
front of the car and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).
2 Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point; renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are
securely tightened; use a torque wrench to
check if possible.
4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar,
check for wear in the mounting by carefully
levering against it to check for free play. Where
this is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant
to move the engine/transmission back and
forth, or from side to side, while you watch the
mounting. While some free play is to be
expected even from new components,
excessive wear should be obvious. If excessive
free play is found, check first that the fasteners
are correctly secured, then renew any worn
components as described below.
TU series engine in-car repair procedures 2C•13
2C
14.2 Using a screwdriver to lever out the
crankshaft front oil seal
If a suitable tap is not
available, cut two slots into
the threads of one of the old
flywheel bolts and use the
bolt to remove the locking compound
from the threads.