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41 Refit the timing belt to the camshaft
sprocket. Ensure that the “front run” of the
belt is taut - ie, ensure that any slack is on the
tensioner pulley side of the belt. Do not twist
the belt sharply while refitting it, and ensure
that the belt teeth are seated centrally in the
sprockets.
42 Loosen the tensioner pulley retaining nut.
Pivot the pulley anti-clockwise to remove all
free play from the timing belt, then retighten
the nut.
43 Tension the belt as described under the
relevant sub-heading in Section 7, then refit
the centre and upper timing belt covers as
described in Section 6.
Carburettor models
44 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
the distributor and HT coil as described in
Chapter 5B, ensuring that the HT leads are
correctly reconnected. If the head was not
stripped, reconnect the wiring connector and
vacuum pipe to the distributor, and the HT
lead to the coil; clip the TDC sensor wiring
connector onto the coil bracket.
Fuel-injected models
45 If the head was stripped for overhaul, refit
the ignition module and leads as described in
Chapter 5B, ensuring that the leads are
correctly reconnected. If the head was not
stripped, simply reconnect the wiring
connector to the module.
All models
46 Reconnect the wiring connector(s) to the
coolant switch/sensor(s) on the left-hand end
of the head.
47 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the
thermostat housing, securely tightening their
retaining clips.
48 Working as described in the relevant Part
of Chapter 4, carry out the following tasks:
a) Refit all disturbed wiring, hoses and
control cable(s) to the inlet manifold and
fuel system components.
b) Reconnect and adjust the choke and
throttle cables as applicable.
d) Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe
to the manifold. Where applicable,
reconnect the oxygen sensor wiring
connector.
e) Refit the air cleaner assembly and
ducting.
49 Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve
clearances as described in Section 5.
50 On completion, reconnect the battery,
and refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
12 Sump - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove
the front roadwheels. Disconnect the battery
negative lead.
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque. If the engine is nearing its
service interval when the oil and filter are due
for renewal, it is recommended that the filter is
also removed, and a new one fitted. After
reassembly, the engine can then be refilled
with fresh oil. Refer to Chapter 1 for further
information.
3 Remove the exhaust system front pipe as
described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
4 Progressively slacken and remove all the
sump retaining nuts and bolts. On cast-iron
block engines, it may be necessary to unbolt
the flywheel cover plate from the transmission
to gain access to the left-hand sump
fasteners.
5 Break the joint by striking the sump with the
palm of your hand, then lower the sump and
withdraw it from underneath the vehicle (see
illustration).
6 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to check the oil pump pick-
up/strainer for signs of clogging or splitting. If
necessary, remove the pump as described in
Section 13, and clean or renew the strainer.
Refitting
7 Clean all traces of sealant from the mating
surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and
sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out the
sump and the engine’s interior.
8 Ensure that the sump and cylinder
block/crankcase mating surfaces are clean
and dry, then apply a coating of suitable
sealant to the sump mating surface.
9 Offer up the sump, locating it on its
retaining studs, and refit its retaining nuts and
bolts. Tighten the nuts and bolts evenly and
progressively to the specified torque.
10 Refit the exhaust front pipe as described
in the relevant Part of Chapter 4.
11 Replenish the engine oil as described in
Chapter 1.
13 Oil pump - removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Removal
1 Remove the sump as described in Section 12.
2 Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the oil pump in position (see
illustration). Disengage the pump sprocket
from the chain, and remove the oil pump. If
the pump locating dowel is a loose fit, remove
and store it with the retaining bolts for safe-
keeping.
Inspection
3 Examine the oil pump sprocket for signs of
damage and wear, such as chipped or missing
teeth. If the sprocket is worn, the pump
assembly must be renewed, as the sprocket is
not available separately. It is also
recommended that the chain and drive
sprocket, fitted to the crankshaft, is renewed at
the same time. On aluminium block engines,
renewal of the chain and drive sprocket is an
involved operation requiring the removal of the
main bearing ladder, and therefore cannot be
carried out with the engine still fitted to the
vehicle. On cast-iron block engines, the oil
pump drive sprocket and chain can be
removed with the engine in situ, once the
crankshaft sprocket has been removed and the
crankshaft oil seal housing has been unbolted.
Refer to Part D for further information.
4 Slacken and remove the bolts securing the
strainer cover to the pump body, then lift off
the strainer cover. Remove the relief valve
piston and spring (and guide pin - cast-iron
block engines only), noting which way round
they are fitted.
2C•12 TU series engine in-car repair procedures
11.38 . . . then with an angle tightening
gauge
12.5 Slacken and remove the sump nuts
and bolts, then remove the sump
13.2 The oil pump is retained by three
bolts