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■ Door input does not respond with the progressive trigger, but with immediate full alarm:
Does the Status LED indicate that the trigger was caused by the shock sensor? (See Diagnostics section of this
guide.) The shock sensor, if set to extreme sensitivity, may be detecting the door unlatching before the door
switch sends its signal. Reducing the sensitivity can solve this problem.
■ The Valet/Program switch doesn't work.
Is it plugged into the correct socket? See Plug-In LED and Valet/Program Switch section of this guide.
■ Status LED doesn't work.
You've probably guessed already, but here goes: Is it plugged in? (See Plug-In LED and Valet/Program Switch
section of this guide.) Is the LED plugged into the correct socket?
■ Door locks operate backwards.
This unit has easily-reversed lock/unlock outputs. Recheck wire connections to see if you have reversed these.
■ The remote start will not activate.
1. Check the harnesses and their connections. Make sure that the harnesses are completely plugged into the
remote start module. Make sure there are good connections to the vehicle wiring.
2. Check voltage and fuses. Use a meter to check for voltage between the red wire in the 5-pin ribbon harness
and the black ground wire. If you have less than battery voltage, check the 3A and both 30A fuses on the
relay satellite. Also make sure that the ground wire connects to a good chassis ground point.
3. Check diagnostics. The diagnostics will tell you which shutdown is active or not connected.
■ The remote start will activate, but the starter never engages.
1. Check for voltage on the purple starter wire two seconds after the remote start becomes active. If there is
voltage present, skip to Step 4. If there is not voltage present, advance to Step 2.
2. Check the 30A fuses.
3. Check diagnostics. If the gray/black wire is detecting ground upon activation, the starter will not crank.
4. Make sure the purple starter wire is connected on the starter side of the optional starter kill/anti-grind relay.
5. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? Some immobilizer systems will not allow the vehicle to crank if active.
6. Check connections. The two red heavy gauge input wires on the relay satellite should have solid connections.
"T-taps" or "scotch locks" are not recommended for any high current heavy gauge wiring. Also, if the vehicle
has more than one 12-volt input wire, then connect one red wire to each.
■ The vehicle starts, but immediately dies.
1. Does the vehicle have an immobilizer? The vehicle’s immobilizer will cut the fuel and/or spark during unau-
thorized starting attempts.
2. Is the remote start programmed for voltage sense? If so, the start time may not be set high enough, or you
may have to adjust the voltage threshold in programming. Voltage sense will not work on some vehicles.
remote start troubleshooting