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CAUTION:
1. Because of the amount of heat generated by the clutch and engine during
extended periods of riding, it is advisable to remove the ignition cover
afterward to allow the ignition to cool off. The heat transfers through the
cases and can damage the stator as it cools off because of lack of airflow
around the stator.
2. If you ever need to weld anything on the bike, disconnect the spark plug
cap, unplug the ignition, disconnect the kill switch, scrape the paint bare
near the area to be welded and put the ground clamp as close to the area
to be welded as possible.
Be sure the fuel tank and carburetor have been removed and safely located
away from the welding process.
3. The frame is 4130 Chrome Moly and it is important to weld it with the proper
rod and heat settings set as light as possible. Cobra recommends replacing
the frame with a new one if the old one becomes damaged.
4. If your kick-starter lever does not return to the rubber bumper, use WD-40
or light penetrating oil under the plastic cover behind the spring on the
shaft. The shaft is a very close fit to the case and also has an O ring in it
and is difficult to get lubrication to which may cause binding. If it does not
loosen up, remove the kick-starter cover and kicking assembly. Grease the
shaft.
M1: Replacing Transmission / Clutch
Lubricant
Tools needed:
• 225 ml (7.6 oz) Cobra Venom 3 Shoe Clutch Milk (Part # MCMUGF01), or
Dexron III Automatic Transmission Fluid.
• 13 mm combination wrench
Procedure:
1. Begin this procedure with a bike that has been ridden more than 5 minutes
but less than 10 minutes. It is desired to have the engine warm enough so
that the oil ‘runny’ but not so hot that there is risk of being burned by the
engine or the oil.
Hot oil and hot components on the motorcycle may cause burns.