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failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable.
Remove the stock banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch as
shown. Make sure to install the copper crush washer from the stock
bolt under the switch (Photo 2). Torque to 25 lbs.
Photo 3
Bleeding the Brake: (do not
begin this process unless
you have a fresh can of brake
fluid.) Remove the lid from the
rear brake reservoir (left side
under carburetor.) Put the box
end of a 11mm wrench over the
caliper bleed nipple and install
the supplied bleed hose tightly
over the nipple. Position the
loop on the hose above the
nipple as shown in Photo 3 with
the other end of the hose in a
container to catch the fluid. Crack the bleed nipple open about 1/8 to a
quarter turn keeping the loop in the hose vertical. Slowly depress the
brake pedal to fill the hose with fluid. Pump slowly until you have brake
fluid extending up into the loop, then you can pump the pedal fairly
aggressively to drive air out of the system. The fluid above the bleed
nipple will prevent air from re-entering the system. Do not let the
reservoir go dry – add fluid as needed. Pump the pedal until there is no
more bubbles then close the nipple with the wrench. Double check the
pedal is firm and the brake works properly.
7. Taillight Prep (EXC & MXC):
Remove the taillight lens to
expose the bulb socket. Pull the
socket out of the way and drill a
13/32” hole in the taillight plastic
as shown in Photo 4. This hole is
to allow the rear turn signal and
license plate illuminator light
wires to pass through the taillight
plastic.
Photo 4
License plate
illuminator light
8. License Plate Illuminator Light
Installation: Locate the license
plate illuminator light in the kit
parts bag. It’s a small silver bolt
with two white wires coming out.
Drill a 5/16” hole in the taillight
plastic and mount it in the
location shown in Photo 4. It
should sit directly on top of the
molded ridge in the plastic.